Understanding Your Freestyle
at the field, your gassing up your freestyle and it starts to leak.
Your frustrated because you need to go play, but you need to fix
the leak. All you need is a working marker and you sit your freestyle
down and play with something else because you don’t understand your
marker and how it works. On this page you will get a quick overview
of how the freestyle works and how to resolve simple issues. If
you need to read this page over and over again, that’s ok just learn
what you can! Don’t forget our knowledge base is online now at www.ultimatefreestylepb.com!
Freestyle is a VERY simple design. High pressure comes through the
HPR or High Pressure Regulator (AKA Sidewinder), shoots through
the silver metal hose inside the marker and fills the back of the
bolt kit with HP. The HP pushes the exhaust portion of the bolt
kit forward and the only thing that keeps it back is the Low Pressure.
The LP part of the marker goes through the LPR or Low Pressure Regulator
(Palmers Rock) on the front and through the blue hose inside the
marker. This hose connects directly to the solenoid through a manifold
into the body. The Low pressure keeps the bolt BACK instead of being
pushed forward by the HP gas forming up in the bolt. When you pull
the trigger, the solenoid releases the pressure keeping the bolt in
the back position and the bolt moves forward. When 10ms (dwell time)
is up, the solenoid clicks back and fills LP part of the bolt kit
with 140psi worth of pressure. This moves the bolt back into place,
ready for the next fire.
kit used in the UFS marker is the HR2 bolt system. This completely
re-designed kit does not use the standard ICD Slider valve, this
means the stock ICD o rings won’t fit. If you break an o ring, please
for more info. The o rings don’t just FAIL, over time you will get
small leaks from the bolt kit. Replacing the o rings is not necessary
unless failure occurs. 9 times out of 10 the o rings are fine and
something else is the problem. The lube used on the Freestyle bolts
is called “Super Lube” and can be found: (www.super-lube.com)
it’s the “oil with PTFE” The PTFE is super important, it’s the slipperiest
substance on the planet. Using Dow, Slick Honey or a thick lube
can seriously damage the solenoid and internal components.
used in the UFS marker are the best regulators on the market today.
AKA and Palmers have created a wonderful match of quality and performance.
They are NOT stock ICD regulators and are easier to adjust and should
last longer. This means none of the stock ICD parts will fit the
AKA or Palmers regulators we use. If your having a regulator related
issue, please contact us directly at (firstname.lastname@example.org)
and tell us what’s going on. We have not had any issues with either
one of these regulators yet, so initial assumptions are that the
regulators are OK.
used on the UFS is either a standard PRO series trigger or ND trigger. The trigger pin is pinched in place by
the grip frame. The UFS marker has very little trigger wobble. This
is achieved by simply adding some cotton inside the holes where
the trigger pin goes. If you happen to take your marker apart and
re-assemble and get trigger wobble, just add some cotton to the
inside of the holes where the trigger pin sits. It’s a very simple
fix to the standard trigger wobble problems of stock freestyles.
the electronics on the Freestyle is a completely different game.
Rocky Knuth from The Naughty Dogs has developed a board called the
NOX board which is
included in each UFS marker. The board provides tournament lock
modes for NPPL, PSP, NXL and more! Up to 6 program modes are available
with this board. Instructions on how to set it up are also included
in this booklet. Your UFS marker does not come standard with a battery,
so you will have to add one when you get it. You will probably get
10k – 12k shots off a single 9v battery. The NOX board uses
all 9v to fire the solenoid, so when the battery drops below 8.5v,
the board will not work properly. This can cause the marker to exhibit
some strange symptoms from leaking to not allowing program mode
to work. Whenever in a pinch and your marker is not working, try
replacing the battery first!
marker is a PRE-TUNED machine, not really a stock marker. It has
been tuned to our specifications. BUT you will have to re-adjust
the HP regulator to match YOUR tank. The markers also come setup
in standard ramping mode, not semi-auto. Please read the NOX manual
later in this documentation for further info on this.
are like any other marker; they don’t usually break unless messed
with. The most important thing about the freestyle in particular
is to understand what can go wrong and how to simply fix it. Now
that you know how the freestyle works and what options it has, you
can go to the next level and understand its weaknesses. A suggestion
to ALL freestyle users is to NOT take apart your marker frame unless
you need to change the battery. Your marker won’t normally fail
internally. Most people take their grip frames apart because of
getting paint on the inside of the frame. When you take your frame
apart, your risking breaking something else. So is it worth the
risk? Small wires, little screws and electronics can be found inside
a freestyle. These are things that should NOT be touched if possible.
If your cleaning, be very cautious and clean around the wires and
electronics. Another issue that comes up is leaking from the grip
frame. This is explained in the next section. If your marker is
leaking insanely from the grip frame, you could have a blown hose
or your LPR is turned up TOO much. Its SUPER rare to have a hose
failure, so most of the time is just a high LPR. This is what causes
most people to freak out and think there marker is broken. A quick,
small adjustment to the LPR will stop the marker from leaking and
you can be off and shooting.
before you react! Know your marker and how it functions so when
you do have an issue, you can easily resolve it. Keep this manual
around for quick reference and you always can contact us direct
for technical support!
UFS knowledgebase is located on the UFS web site: www.ultimatefreestylepb.com. The
knowledge base includes online service reference guide, take apart
guides, service videos and online forum. If you have any problems,
you can use our resources OR e-mail email@example.com.
We are here to help in any way possible, so please contact us if
you have ANY problems!
- Marker does not shoot (solenoid no click) This is normally caused by a bad
bad settings on the board.
Check wiring to battery
Check board settings
Test solenoid wire with 9v
- Marker does not shoot (solenoid clicks) Usually this
is caused by low gas pressure
into the marker.
ASA, make sure gas is flowing
Check pressure (should be 240psi)
Check battery voltage (should be > 8.5v)
Check dwell timing (should be >10ms)
- Marker does not shoot (bolt forward) LPR
Pressure is too low to compensate for
pressure coming into the marker.
Increase LPR pressure
Check dwell time (should be >10ms)
Bolt is not lubed properly or jammed
- Marker shoots (bolt leaks) This
is normally caused by o ring damage
can be caused by something unscrewed.
Check LPR and HPR pressures
Check Exhaust O ring
- Marker shoots (grip frame leaks) This
is caused by over pressurization of the
solenoid or a bad hose.
This needs to be resolved or your noid can be damaged.
Turn LPR down
Make sure Solenoid has not come loose
Make sure blue hoses are not broken
Check all internal and external o rings
- Marker shoots but is inconsistent
breaks paint. A)
Relube bolt kit
Check battery (should be > 8.5v)
Check dwell time (should be > 10ms)
Bad paint/bore match
Regs need to be re-ballanced/adjusted
Ball detents are worn out
All of the major settings on
the NOX Board may easily be changed using trigger programming. A
pushbutton tournament lock toggle is employed to prevent programming
the settings on the field during play.
**NOX is not responsible for
settings that the user sets to make there guns illegal for tournament
paintball (ie. NPPL or PSP). Its the users responsibility to insure
the filter settings are set to specific tournament standards. Also
NOX is not responsible for dirty, worn or user setup "Bouncy" switches.
Specifications for NOX products may change without notice.
NOTE: Be sure to follow all safety
precautions before programming the settings as to prevent accidental
firing of the marker. Insure marker is degassed and there is no
paint in the breech.
Entering The Programming Menu
As shipped, the tournament lock
is unlocked by default. To enter the main programming menu, power
up the marker and hold the trigger in for five seconds until the
LED changes its normal blink style to let you know that the programming
menu is now active.
Changing Menu Selections
The NOX board provides a large
range of settings that can be changed by trigger programming. Each
setting has a different blink pattern in the main programming menu.
1. firing mode (main menu, 1
a. semi, (1) blink
b. capped semi, (2) blinks
c. PSP 3 ball burst, (3) blinks
d. NXL, full auto, (4) blinks
e. Millennium, (5) blinks, (uses
f. linear ramp (6) blinks, (uses
ramp point and ramp level)
g. training mode, (7) blinks
2. eye mode (main menu, 2 blinks)
a. delay shot on empty breech,
b. drop shot on empty breech,
c. disable eye check, (3) blinks
3. dwell (6-25 ms) (main menu,
4. trigger debounce (set 1-25)
5. paint debounce (0-15 ms)
6. mechanical debounce (set 0-10)
7. drop-off adjustment (0-15
8. ramp point (2-12 bps)
9. ramp level (set 1-3)
10. rof (14-20 bps, 21 for unlimited)
11. rof fine, added to rof in
1/4 bps (0 = 0, 1 = 1/4, 2 = 2/4, 3 = 3/4)
12. bypass rof (8-14 bps)
To change a selection while in
the main programming menu, use short trigger pulls. Each time the
trigger is pulled and released, the number of blinks will indicate
the new menu selection. To return to a previous menu selection,
keep pulling the trigger and the menu will wrap around and start
Viewing the Current Setting
To view the stored setting of
the current menu selection, hold the trigger in for two seconds
and release. The LED will now go back to normal blinking, and blink
out the setting, repeating after a short pause. To return to the
programming menu without making any changes, use one short trigger
pull. All of the settings may viewed this way without having to
go through the full programming cycle.
Changing the Current Setting
After viewing the current setting,
you may change it by holding the trigger in for two seconds and
releasing. The LED will now blink out the minimum value for this
setting. In some cases the minimum value is zero (FSDO and Paint
Delay) and the LED will not blink at all. To increase the value
of the setting, use short trigger pulls. There is no time limit
and the LED will continue to blink out the new value, repeating
after a short pause. To keep the new setting, hold the trigger in
for two seconds and release. This will save the value of the setting
on the board and return to the main programming menu. In the case
that you don’t want to keep the new setting, hold the trigger in
for five seconds and release. The programming cycle will be aborted
and return back to the programming menu.
Exiting Programming Mode
The only way to exit programming
mode is to power off the marker. Any changes that were saved to
the board during programming will be remembered and restored each
time the marker is powered on.
Changing the Tournament Lock
First you will need to gain access to the NoX board
by removing the right-hand grip panel to expose the battery compartment.
The small white pushbutton on the bottom of the FS board (FSP and
Cyborg boards have a small gold button on the back of the board)
functions as the tournament lock toggle. Pressing and holding the
button for one second will toggle the state of the lock and the
LED will blink one time for unlocked and two times for locked. Releasing
the button will return the marker to normal operation. This setting
is remembered like the other settings when the marker is powered
off. This allows for easy entry into main programming menu when
set to unlocked without the need to open up the grips.