Understanding Your Freestyle Basics:


            Your at the field, your gassing up your freestyle and it starts to leak. Your frustrated because you need to go play, but you need to fix the leak. All you need is a working marker and you sit your freestyle down and play with something else because you don’t understand your marker and how it works. On this page you will get a quick overview of how the freestyle works and how to resolve simple issues. If you need to read this page over and over again, that’s ok just learn what you can! Don’t forget our knowledge base is online now at www.ultimatefreestylepb.com!


            The Freestyle is a VERY simple design. High pressure comes through the HPR or High Pressure Regulator (AKA Sidewinder), shoots through the silver metal hose inside the marker and fills the back of the bolt kit with HP. The HP pushes the exhaust portion of the bolt kit forward and the only thing that keeps it back is the Low Pressure. The LP part of the marker goes through the LPR or Low Pressure Regulator (Palmers Rock) on the front and through the blue hose inside the marker. This hose connects directly to the solenoid through a manifold into the body. The Low pressure keeps the bolt BACK instead of being pushed forward by the HP gas forming up in the bolt. When you pull the trigger, the solenoid releases the pressure keeping the bolt  in the back position and the bolt moves forward. When 10ms (dwell time) is up, the solenoid clicks back and fills LP part of the bolt kit with 140psi worth of pressure. This moves the bolt back into place, ready for the next fire.


The bolt kit used in the UFS marker is the HR2 bolt system. This completely re-designed kit does not use the standard ICD Slider valve, this means the stock ICD o rings won’t fit. If you break an o ring, please contact: (service@ultimatefreestylepb.com) for more info. The o rings don’t just FAIL, over time you will get small leaks from the bolt kit. Replacing the o rings is not necessary unless failure occurs. 9 times out of 10 the o rings are fine and something else is the problem. The lube used on the Freestyle bolts is called “Super Lube” and can be found: (www.super-lube.com) it’s the “oil with PTFE” The PTFE is super important, it’s the slipperiest substance on the planet. Using Dow, Slick Honey or a thick lube can seriously damage the solenoid and internal components.  


The regulators used in the UFS marker are the best regulators on the market today. AKA and Palmers have created a wonderful match of quality and performance. They are NOT stock ICD regulators and are easier to adjust and should last longer. This means none of the stock ICD parts will fit the AKA or Palmers regulators we use. If your having a regulator related issue, please contact us directly at (service@ultimatefreestylepb.com) and tell us what’s going on. We have not had any issues with either one of these regulators yet, so initial assumptions are that the regulators are OK.


The trigger used on the UFS is either a standard PRO series trigger or ND trigger.  The trigger pin is pinched in place by the grip frame. The UFS marker has very little trigger wobble. This is achieved by simply adding some cotton inside the holes where the trigger pin goes. If you happen to take your marker apart and re-assemble and get trigger wobble, just add some cotton to the inside of the holes where the trigger pin sits. It’s a very simple fix to the standard trigger wobble problems of stock freestyles.


Understanding the electronics on the Freestyle is a completely different game. Rocky Knuth from The Naughty Dogs has developed a board called the NOX  board which  is included in each UFS marker. The board provides tournament lock modes for NPPL, PSP, NXL and more! Up to 6 program modes are available with this board. Instructions on how to set it up are also included in this booklet. Your UFS marker does not come standard with a battery, so you will have to add one when you get it. You will probably get 10k – 12k shots off a single 9v battery. The NOX board uses all 9v to fire the solenoid, so when the battery drops below 8.5v, the board will not work properly. This can cause the marker to exhibit some strange symptoms from leaking to not allowing program mode to work. Whenever in a pinch and your marker is not working, try replacing the battery first! 

The UFS marker is a PRE-TUNED machine, not really a stock marker. It has been tuned to our specifications. BUT you will have to re-adjust the HP regulator to match YOUR tank. The markers also come setup in standard ramping mode, not semi-auto. Please read the NOX manual later in this documentation for further info on this.


Freestyles are like any other marker; they don’t usually break unless messed with. The most important thing about the freestyle in particular is to understand what can go wrong and how to simply fix it. Now that you know how the freestyle works and what options it has, you can go to the next level and understand its weaknesses. A suggestion to ALL freestyle users is to NOT take apart your marker frame unless you need to change the battery. Your marker won’t normally fail internally. Most people take their grip frames apart because of getting paint on the inside of the frame. When you take your frame apart, your risking breaking something else. So is it worth the risk? Small wires, little screws and electronics can be found inside a freestyle. These are things that should NOT be touched if possible. If your cleaning, be very cautious and clean around the wires and electronics. Another issue that comes up is leaking from the grip frame. This is explained in the next section. If your marker is leaking insanely from the grip frame, you could have a blown hose or your LPR is turned up TOO much. Its SUPER rare to have a hose failure, so most of the time is just a high LPR. This is what causes most people to freak out and think there marker is broken. A quick, small adjustment to the LPR will stop the marker from leaking and you can be off and shooting.


Think before you react! Know your marker and how it functions so when you do have an issue, you can easily resolve it. Keep this manual around for quick reference and you always can contact us direct for technical support!


            The UFS knowledgebase is located on the UFS web site: www.ultimatefreestylepb.com. The knowledge base includes online service reference guide, take apart guides, service videos and online forum. If you have any problems, you can use our resources OR e-mail service@ultimatefreestylepb.com. We are here to help in any way possible, so please contact us if you have ANY problems!

Freestyle Troubleshooting Guide


- Marker does not shoot (solenoid no click)    This is normally caused by a bad battery

                                                                        or bad settings on the board.

A) Replace battery

                                                                        B) Check wiring to battery

                                                                        C) Check board settings

                                                                        D) Test solenoid wire with 9v


- Marker does not shoot (solenoid clicks)       Usually this is caused by low gas pressure

                                                                        coming into the marker.

A) Check ASA, make sure gas is flowing

                                                                        B) Check pressure (should be 240psi)

                                                                        C) Check battery voltage (should be > 8.5v)

                                                                        D) Check dwell timing (should be >10ms)


- Marker does not shoot (bolt forward)           LPR Pressure is too low to compensate for

                                                                        high pressure coming into the marker.

A)   Increase LPR pressure

B)   Check dwell time (should be >10ms)

C)   Bolt is not lubed properly or jammed


- Marker shoots (bolt leaks)                            This is normally caused by o ring damage

                                                                        or can be caused by something unscrewed.

A)   Re-Lube marker

B)   Check LPR and HPR pressures

C)   Check Exhaust O ring


- Marker shoots (grip frame leaks)                  This is caused by over pressurization of the

solenoid or a bad hose. This needs to be resolved or your noid can be damaged.

A)   Turn LPR down

B)   Make sure Solenoid has not come loose

C)   Make sure blue hoses are not broken

D)   Check all internal and external o rings


- Marker shoots but is inconsistent    

  or breaks paint.                                              A) Relube bolt kit

                                                                        B) Check battery (should be > 8.5v)

                                                                        C) Check dwell time (should be > 10ms)

                                                                        D) Bad paint/bore match

                                                                        E) Regs need to be re-ballanced/adjusted

                                                                        F) Ball detents are worn out



NOX Reloaded Settings:


All of the major settings on the NOX Board may easily be changed using trigger programming. A pushbutton tournament lock toggle is employed to prevent programming the settings on the field during play.


**NOX is not responsible for settings that the user sets to make there guns illegal for tournament paintball (ie. NPPL or PSP). Its the users responsibility to insure the filter settings are set to specific tournament standards. Also NOX is not responsible for dirty, worn or user setup "Bouncy" switches. Specifications for NOX products may change without notice.


NOTE: Be sure to follow all safety precautions before programming the settings as to prevent accidental firing of the marker. Insure marker is degassed and there is no paint in the breech.


Entering The Programming Menu


As shipped, the tournament lock is unlocked by default. To enter the main programming menu, power up the marker and hold the trigger in for five seconds until the LED changes its normal blink style to let you know that the programming menu is now active.


Changing Menu Selections


The NOX board provides a large range of settings that can be changed by trigger programming. Each setting has a different blink pattern in the main programming menu.


1. firing mode (main menu, 1 blink)


a. semi, (1) blink


b. capped semi, (2) blinks


c. PSP 3 ball burst, (3) blinks


d. NXL, full auto, (4) blinks


e. Millennium, (5) blinks, (uses ramp point)


f. linear ramp (6) blinks, (uses ramp point and ramp level)


g. training mode, (7) blinks


2. eye mode (main menu, 2 blinks)


a. delay shot on empty breech, (1) blink


b. drop shot on empty breech, (2) blinks


c. disable eye check, (3) blinks


3. dwell (6-25 ms) (main menu, 3 blinks…)


4. trigger debounce (set 1-25)


5. paint debounce (0-15 ms)


6. mechanical debounce (set 0-10)


7. drop-off adjustment (0-15 ms)


8. ramp point (2-12 bps)


9. ramp level (set 1-3)


10. rof (14-20 bps, 21 for unlimited)


11. rof fine, added to rof in 1/4 bps (0 = 0, 1 = 1/4, 2 = 2/4, 3 = 3/4)


12. bypass rof (8-14 bps)


To change a selection while in the main programming menu, use short trigger pulls. Each time the trigger is pulled and released, the number of blinks will indicate the new menu selection. To return to a previous menu selection, keep pulling the trigger and the menu will wrap around and start over.


Viewing the Current Setting


To view the stored setting of the current menu selection, hold the trigger in for two seconds and release. The LED will now go back to normal blinking, and blink out the setting, repeating after a short pause. To return to the programming menu without making any changes, use one short trigger pull. All of the settings may viewed this way without having to go through the full programming cycle.


Changing the Current Setting


After viewing the current setting, you may change it by holding the trigger in for two seconds and releasing. The LED will now blink out the minimum value for this setting. In some cases the minimum value is zero (FSDO and Paint Delay) and the LED will not blink at all. To increase the value of the setting, use short trigger pulls. There is no time limit and the LED will continue to blink out the new value, repeating after a short pause. To keep the new setting, hold the trigger in for two seconds and release. This will save the value of the setting on the board and return to the main programming menu. In the case that you don’t want to keep the new setting, hold the trigger in for five seconds and release. The programming cycle will be aborted and return back to the programming menu.


Exiting Programming Mode


The only way to exit programming mode is to power off the marker. Any changes that were saved to the board during programming will be remembered and restored each time the marker is powered on.


Changing the Tournament Lock Status


First you will need to gain access to the NoX board by removing the right-hand grip panel to expose the battery compartment. The small white pushbutton on the bottom of the FS board (FSP and Cyborg boards have a small gold button on the back of the board) functions as the tournament lock toggle. Pressing and holding the button for one second will toggle the state of the lock and the LED will blink one time for unlocked and two times for locked. Releasing the button will return the marker to normal operation. This setting is remembered like the other settings when the marker is powered off. This allows for easy entry into main programming menu when set to unlocked without the need to open up the grips.